Kenko Nostaltone Orange filter.

Hi everyone,

The other day in a post I mentioned I was waiting for delivery of a new filter. This filter is one that I’ve been greatly looking forward to trying out. Kenko make three Nostaltone filters in orange, blue and green. They all have different properties, I chose the orange version to try out as I have a leaning towards warmer, softer, diffused images. The orange has a stronger colour effect and some unusual flare properties as well as a weaker diffusion effect compared with the blue version. The blue version has a weaker colour effect and a stronger diffusion effect and also some interesting flare properties. I’m not sure about the green filter as I’ve not been able to find a lot of information on it. These filters are somewhat hard to get in the UK and mine came by a very bizarre route from Japan to the UK via Spain and France!.

Below are some straight out of camera shots taken with the Nostaltone filter mounted on my Olympus 9-18mm lens at ISO 200 with sunny white balance setting. I wanted to find some Autumnal foliage as I though the filter would work well with the Autumnal colours. It’s been a lovely sunny day, because we’ve had a long, hot, dry summer the foliage is still very green for this time of year, I’ll probably repeat this later in the month. I haven’t done anything in post with these images except for lens corrections and, as the filter softens the image, I’ve left it that way and not applied any sharpening. I edited the last image to make it look more Autumnal. πŸ™‚ With one minor exception I couldn’t get it to exhibit the blue lens flares, even without my lens hood fitted which might be a factor of my lens choice, I’ll be trying it with different lenses.

Kind regards to all,

Leigh

Photography in one’s advancing years.

Hi everyone,

I found this very interesting video and as I’m inexorably nudging towards 70, I can fully identify with what he’s saying. My own minimalist camera choice closely resembles his. A small camera bag, one camera body, a spare battery, a small filter pouch with an absolute maximum of four small diameter filters, a lens cloth and, in my case, a couple of very small and lightweight zoom lenses which weigh in at a combined lens weight of 288g or approx. 10 oz!.

As someone who doesn’t habitually shoot many shots at telephoto focal lengths if I’m going to carry a “what if” lens, particularly when travelling, it has to be the smallest, lightest, most compact telephoto that I can pack and at 133g with a length of 5.6cms that’s my Lumix 35-100mm (70-200mm equiv.) f/4-5.6 lens which fits in the palm of one’s hand. At this weight I can live with it even if it only gets used very occasionally. It’s small size means that it’s an eminently pocketable lens which is useful. This lens nicely compliments my equally small and lightweight M.Zuiko 9-18mm (18-36mm equiv.) f/4-5.6 lens which I more than often find myself using at or towards the long end.

In the flashy promotional gear videos you always see a young, fit-looking guy bounding up the rocks with the waves crashing effortlessly carrying a backpack full of gear and a tripod with a heavy camera and lens hanging from his neck. Nowadays I couldn’t even climb up the rocks let alone do so with camera gear. πŸ™‚ So at the end of the day it boils down to a simple choice, adapt to one’s physical limitations or give up. In total honesty do I feel slightly aggrieved that I’m not that man in the videos?, absolutely, will it prevent me from pursuing and enjoying my photography?, absolutely not!.

Kind regards

Leigh

The Taylor Swift Look :)

Hi everyone,

I recently discovered that Taylor Swift, another Olympus/OM Systems user’s favourite look for her Instagram page is using the Olympus Vintage 1 art filter. As I shoot RAW most of the time and Olympus’ Workspace software allows me to add the art filter in post I thought, for fun, and as I couldn’t find any obliging celebreties, I’d give a few of my recent street shots of Worthing the “Taylor Swift Look”. I never thought I’d have anything in common with Taylor Swift. πŸ™‚ All shots taken with my Lumix 35-100mm f/4-5.6 lens and Pen F camera.

Moving swiftly on, sorry couldn’t resist the pun, I’ve ordered a new filter from Japan, one that I’ve been interested in for some while now. More on that when I’ve received it and had a chance to try it out but, suffice to say, I’m quite excited to see the effect this filter has.

Kind regards

Leigh

Photo walk in Worthing with Lumix 35-100mm f/4-5.6

HI everyone,

As it’s been a beautiful, sunny, hot day I thought I’d take my 35-100 (70-200) mm lens and my PEN-F camera for a walk around Worthing. This lens is so tiny, light and sharp and it’s a real joy to use. Although street photography isn’t my genre it was fun, I particularly like the shot of the lady dancing to the rap music coming from the boom box. πŸ™‚ I processed these shots with various Teal and Orange LUTs. Below, a few shots:

Best wishes,

Leigh

Farewell old monitors, you’ve served me well and ON1’s photo restore feature.

Hi everyone,

Lately I’ve been investing some time, effort and unfortunately money in getting good monitor calibration. The chances of getting a good calibration on one, let alone two, of my ageing 27 inch monitors was slim to say the very least if not totally impossible. I decided to bite the bullet and get two new Hewlett Packard 27 inch monitors to replace them. I’m very pleased with them, they’re by no means top of the line but good value for money. I installed the monitor drivers and attached my Spyder colorimeter and used the DisplayCal software to calibrate them at 120Β cd/mΒ² brightness down from their default 300 cd/mΒ². I already had my NVidia GPU settings setup for full range RGB 0-255. On completion of calibration DisplayCal saves the monitor’s colour profile and you apply it. Nice to have two monitors with the same colour calibration.

The thing that I really like about the new monitors apart from their light weight and wafer-thin bezels is that it’s so easy to change their settings using the HP Display Center software rather than have to push fiddly buttons on the monitor and navigate through the monitor’s on screen display which makes adjusting RGB and brightness settings when calibrating them much quicker and easier. It’s also handy that this software has the facility to save a monitor’s settings to a file. In conjunction with my Iris eye-protect software I run with a warmer 5000 K colour temperature at 100Β cd/mΒ² during the day time and an even warmer 3700 K at 80 cd/mΒ² in the evenings automatically switched at a set time to reduce the monitor’s blue light output further which rests my eyes before bedtime. When I run one of my processing programs it switches back automatically using its Colour Pauser function to my calibrated monitor setting of 6500 K at 120 Β cd/mΒ². I’m a happy bunny πŸ™‚

16 days after purchasing ON1’s Photo RAW MAX 2026.4 software they finally manged to get the license sorted out and I was able to try out their new Restore feature to colourise one of my old family black and white photos and it does a pretty good job which one can adjust afterwards as one likes, the shot below isn’t adjusted. My late mother did some modelling and film extra work when she was younger in the 60’s and early 70’s. People thought she looked like Joan Collins, of course I’m more than heavily biased but I think that she was prettier. I have absolutely no idea where the dog came from, she probably “borrowed” it for the shot. Her claim to fame was that she once stood on Dudley Moore’s foot at a party which, given the high heels she wore, must have hurt. A case of no fame, no pain I suppose. πŸ™‚

Best regards,

Leigh

Worthing Dome

Hi everyone,

The historical Worthing Dome Cinema on Worthing seafront. Five frame handheld HDR, Olympus PEN E-PL8 and Lumix 35-100mm lens.

Kind regards

Leigh

Monitor Calibration.

Hi everyone,

I’ve been using one of those DataColor Spyder devices and their associated software to calibrate my two large post-processing monitors. I’ve always been somewhat underwhelmed with their software and decided to try the Spyder hardware with the DisplayCAL software. I think this software is more fully featured and does a much better and more thorough job of calibrating the monitors. Once setup it works perfectly with the Spyder sensor. I found this very useful Youtube video which walks you through setting up DisplayCal to work with the Spyder device.

The only additional thing that I did was disable the DisplayCaL system tray applet which loads through Windows Task Scheduler as it doesn’t play nicely with the IrisTech eye-saver software that I use to dim my monitors and change the colour temperature to warm white late in the evenings along with an Alexa routine which also changes the room lighting from 6500Β°K daylight to 3000Β°K warm white as the applet causes one of my monitors to periodically change brightness but this isn’t something that very many people would have to do. The IrisTech “Iris” software has colour pausers and colour triggers which can be set to automatically change to a set colour temperature and brightness when a specific program is launched.

On another note I bought ON1’s Photo RAW MAX 2026 software a week ago but unfortunately I’ve been unable to really use it as ON1 have an issue with their payment people FastSpring. The receipt for the software appears on my ON purchases section but not in the product and subscription section of my ON1 account so I cannot complete registering the software and thus using many of its features until this is resolved which is quite frustrating. I’ve been told that ON1 are working with FastSpring to resolve this issue, I hope they get it sorted soon. I’ve not been having much luck with software lately. πŸ™‚

Kind regards

Leigh

Having fun

Hi everyone, had some fun with this shot of Southwick.

Kind regards

Leigh

What a farce!

Hi everyone.

I don’t believe this, more than a week ago, born of endless frustration, I sent a request to Paypal to obtain a refund for the software as I wasn’t getting, and never did get anywhere with DxO support. They have done so and now DxO have issued a refund and thus cancelled my licenseΒ just as I thought I was winning and I’ve got it working!!!, what a farce!.

Oh well, I guess that I’ll just have to live without Nik9, I’m not going through this again as my experiences with their “support” doesn’t inspire me in the event of having any future problems. DxO have lost a sale and a customer, not that I suppose that it bothers them one little bit as they don’t seem to possess any customer goodwill whatsoever.

Regards

Leigh

Heatwave

Hi everyone,

In my part of the U.K we’re experiencing an unprecedented, for this time of year, heatwave with inside temperatures here close to 32 degrees C by early afternoon and staying this way until night time. In recent years we’ve had this in the Summer but not this early in the year. A few years ago I installed some software to help keep my Windows PC cool during such hot spells. I installed and configured ThrottleStop to under-volt my CPU, I configured MSI Afterburner to cap my GPU temperature at a maximum of 75 C at which time it will lower the GPU clock frequency and I run some pretty aggressive CPU, GPU and System fans’ cooling curves using Fan Control. The first two programs also come with useful monitoring and alarm features that one can setup to alert one to high CPU, GPU temperatures and low cooling fan speeds/fan failures etc..

All of these programs have programmable presets so, once setup one can select different ones to suit one’s purpose. I do run some pretty demanding post-processing software which can tax the CPU and/or GPU especially so during such hot spells. I’m not getting absolute top performance from my PC but I’ve significantly reduced the risk of heat damage and helped to prolong the life of the components. As with all such things one has to understand what one’s doing and to proceed cautiously but it’s worth the effort. Here’s an excellent guide to ThrottleStop and how it works, here a guide to MSI Afterburner and lastly a guide to Fan Control.

Kind regards to all,

Leigh